For "Tobacco Clutch Mary Jane" the following results were found: 224 products, 16 FAQs

Nearly all pipe tobaccos require a certain amount of drying. This prevents undue temperature development when attempting to light excessively moist tobacco, and avoids correspondingly high levels of condensate. We believe pipe tobacco should have a dry consistency, without being so dry that it crumbles to the touch.

This is a feature of the Missouri meerschaum Co. products. A corncob pipe without wood on the bottom would break very soon. A cob of corn has no solid shape in cross section. There sits only corn starch. This would become damp by condensate or burn through quickly. Depending on the corncob model, a wooden plug is therefore installed on our corncobs. Alternatively or additionally (depending on the shape), the stem is pulled into the chamber. Another advantage: The opening of the stem is fairly vertical and at the lowest point of the chamber. A very positive feature that many Cob smokers appreciate is the positive result and side effect: The draft enters the chamber at the lowest point of the tobacco load. The stem in the chamber is intentionally built in and an important feature that distuingishes these pipes from other brands. Please note: These pipes have been made since the 1860s many hundred millions of times. Corncobs are iconic US products and iconic pipes with a rustic appearance and outstanding smoke properties. Please trust in this, if a corncobs for you at first may also appear unfamiliar and as a new kind of smoke pipe.

Most tobacco is too moist when sold; pipe tobacco fresh from the packet often has the texture of wet leaves. The effect of fire on wet foliage is well known: it produces fumes and the fire soon extinguishes. Tobacco like this is difficult or impossible to smoke, even for the most experienced pipe smoker. Regrettably, the fact that pipe smokers let their tobacco dry out before smoking is rarely mentioned. We have advised thousands of new pipe smokers. Repeatedly attempting to light excessively moist tobacco with a lighter or matches is a factor behind most problems. Anyone who went camping as a child will recall how hard it is to light damp wood. Damage to pipes is nearly always caused by applying flame to the wood for too long. At some point, the pipe really will smoke as the wood of the pipe starts to burn. Needless to say, this has nothing to do with pipe smoking and has no place in the proper usage of a pipe. Applying forensic fire investigation methods to the wood of the pipe will quickly determine the causes of damage or excessive temperatures. Having advised many clients, we can say that in the vast majority of pipe damage cases, temperatures that cannot be brought about by smouldering tobacco played a part. Therefore, you should not be concerned about smoking a pipe. However, please take care to avoid applying excessive ignition sources to the pipe. What should I do if damage occurs despite this? Nobody is perfect and people make mistakes. Simply contact us and we will find an answer for you. :)

Question: As an avid pipe smoker, I also want to have the opportunity to consume my tobacco during my lunch break ... Unfortunately, this is difficult because of the pipes ... Now, the idea has come to enjoy the pipe tobacco as a cigarette. Stopfmaschinge bought, unfortunately went backwards. Now I wanted to ask you, which possibilities there are pipe tobacco in cigarette form (with filter) to bring? Answer: You can absolutely do that. Pipe tobacco stuffed into cigarettes is of course possible and was not uncommon in the past. The cut of the pipe tobacco should be rather fine. Then manual winding by hand or a winder is recommended. The winder are not designed for these tobaccos and the tobaccos are not intended for cigarettes. The tobacco should be quite dry (not too dry) and the cut and the amount of tobacco should not be too big. I personally came away from it. More recommendable is a cheap little whistle, which may only 50% stuffs. A shag whistle is also useful. Any corncob would be an option. Most normal pipes are also suitable. And of course, such a Shag pipe for fine-cut tobacco: This was used decades ago during the lunch break or in the 10-minute break. Ideal are also plugs that you can cut yourself and thus has influence on the width. In a corncob and you can enjoy a wonderful 5-40min smoking pleasure depending on stuffing quantity and pipe.

If the mouthpiece of your pipe becomes loose, help is needed. Low rotatability when cold, especially in winter, is normal, as the wood and mouthpiece expand or contract differently. Please do not leave your pipe outside in the cold at night. In the unlikely event that such a problem arises: Put the pipe together and let it warm up to room temperature. Please separate your pipe if possible only at room temperature. When it is warm, the material usually expands again so that the gap dimensions should fit again. Therefore: Always let it cool down and never remove the mouthpiece in cold conditions. A loose mouthpiece can be reattached with some home remedies: Possibility a)  Warm the cones Insert the 9.1 mm drill shaft let cool   Possibility b)  Warm the cones over the tealight Quench the cones in ice watern Check accuracy of fit Repeat the procedure several times if necessary   Possibility c) Fill the spigot with pipe cleaners Warm the cones over the tealight Let the cones cool down Check accuracy of fit Repeat the procedure until the pin is secure   Possibility d) – in somewhat stubborn cases Warm the cones over the tealight Tap the tenon lightly and gently on a solid plate Quench the cones in ice water Check accuracy of fit If necessary, repeat the procedure several times

Please do not try to smoke the pipe until empty, right down to the last crumb. The tobacco in the bottom of the bowl collects moisture and tends to be so moist that the pipe no longer tastes good. You should definitely avoid applying excessive flame to consume this moist tobacco: many a pipe smoker has inadvertently charred and damaged their pipe in this way.

Matches and pipe lighters can be used. Special pipe matches are produced from sulphur-free, untreated wood. Most pipe lighters produce a flame that comes from the side of the lighter rather than the top, enabling the user to light the tobacco with ease and precision. Naturally, GERMANUS offers a whole series of pipe lighters. Rather than apply the flame to a single point, move it around in a circular motion. Flame contact should be brief, meaning 1-3 seconds.If the wood shows clear signs of charring, the flame contact was obviously too long.When lighting up, draw gently and evenly on the pipe. In most cases, the tobacco on the surface will swell up. This is entirely normal.Most experienced pipe smokers will let their pipe go out after first lighting it, then carefully press down the unravelled tobacco with a pipe tool and light up again. Applying flame is much easier second time around, with the tobacco surface now perfectly even.Tobacco tampers are one tool in the pipe smoker’s arsenal primarily designed for this purpose. Under no circumstances should a tamper be used to tamp the pipe forcefully in the manner of an old-fashioned muzzle-loader.

Our pipes are made of solid briar wood. Scorching of the surface can impair taste. Provided the pipe is properly used, burnouts are physically impossible. Assessment Fundamentals of significant burn damage (burnouts) to pipes: In this case, the damage results from overheating, i.e. temperatures exceeding 1,000 degrees Celsius during smoking. In many instances, honeycomb-like charring (which only forms at around this temperature) is observed at the burnt spot. The normal smouldering temperature for a pipe is between 650 and 800 degrees Celsius. There are several possible reasons for excessive heat while tobacco is smouldering. A constant draught can cause such abnormal temperatures to arise. It is also possible that the pipe is held in the mouth at too steep an angle, with the user pulling on the pipe too strongly and too frequently, exacerbated by insufficient temperature control by hand. Defects in the wood (pockets, soft spots) can be generally ruled out. Where a defect is present, burn damage will ensue at a much lower temperature and will be minor and more specific. Finally I would note that excessively damp tobacco can exacerbate the situations outlined above. We GERMANUS are here for you even in case of an accident of your pipe. More deatils in our GERMANUS Pipe FAQThis is what other manufacturers say: Burners of Rattrays Tobacco Pipes This is what the manufactruer Rattrays says about burners and warrenty claims. Briar is a very heat resistant material, nevertheless it is still just wood, which can be damaged by heat. Your pipe works in a similar way as a fireplace. If you open the air valve the wood burns much faster and more furious. If you draw with too much force at your pipe, the ember will get to a small fire and probably will damage the inside of your pipe. If the pipe gets too hot, immediately put it aside and let it cool down. Burners taste and smell unpleasant and beyond that are visible. If you recognize fire damage inside the bowl, under no circumstances continue to smoke the pipe. You will provoke a total loss, which in most cases will not be replaced by the manufacturer. Bring the pipe to your pipe shop, and your dealer will send the pipe to a repair shop. In the first states of a burner the pipe can be saved with a protective coating without any difficulties. Customer complaints of Rattray Pipes Most burners will not be replaced by the pipe manufacturers for the above reasons. There are some exceptions however. If the pipe does not show a large burned area, but a small pointed funnel shaped hole, it suggests that this was a faulty spot – a small stone inside the wood or a cavern. Also, if the smoke channel was drilled too close to the outside and the pipe is very thin walled, an eligible reason for reclamation can occur. If the pipe has a large burned area with fissures, in most cases the pipe was smoked too hot. Most burners are situated around the blowhole, there the generated heat is very strong if the suction is too high. The bottom of a lot of complained pipes is very thin, but pipe manufacturers would never ship out such thin walled pipes. Even if every series pipe is slightly different, the wall strenght is the same in every single piece. If the pipe is still warm and moist, the wood is especially prone to damage from scratching out the bowl, so please let the pipe cool down before cleaning. Also the attempt to smoke the last crumb ob tobacco often ends with a burner, because the lighter flame gets too close to the wood. Fire damage in the upper part of the bowl are usually caused during the lighting process. You should always move the flame in a circular and even way. If you hold the flame to the same spot too long, the wood can burn very fast. You can easily identify left-handed pipe smokers with a burner on the right side of the bowl and vice versa. In the end we have to mention one more thing: If you want to smoke on the bike, in the car with open windows, or on a boat – you should use a pipe with a lid. The lid will protect the pipe from generating too much heat caused by the increased wind.

Beginners tend to smoke excessively moist tobacco too fast, thereby applying too much flame to the tobacco. This causes a build-up of bad-tasting condensate. Once you accept you are being too hasty, simply give the pipe a few seconds to cool down before continuing with a little more caution. If so much condensate accumulates that the pipe only delivers an acrid taste, let it burn out and give the pipe a whole day to dry out so that the wood can regenerate. If you carry on smoking the pipe with greater haste and apply even more flame, you will soon burn your tongue and perhaps also notice the aroma of burnt wood. Important: As soon as you notice the scent or taste of charred wood owing to a hasty approach, you should stop smoking the pipe immediately: smoking a pipe does not mean smoking the wood of the pipe. It is therefore a simple matter to avoid burnouts. An inexpert approach can give rise to a vicious circle, potentially ending with the destruction of the pipe itself. However, do not be concerned: it is an extreme case in which you experience the taste of charred wood before you burn out a pipe. With just a little caution and consideration for the pipe, burnouts are very unlikely, even over many years. Our advice is to be sceptical of any reports you may read stating that pipes from quality manufacturers like ourselves can be burnt out because of material defects. This may be theoretically feasible, but in practice it is all but impossible. (For more information on this, see below.) Burnouts are not an issue for the sensible beginner, so please set about your task in a carefree and optimistic spirit. Remember that pipe smoking requires calm; it is an almost meditative experience.

The pipe is now smouldering. It is not accurate to say a pipe is ‘burning’: a pipe is not a device that smokes like a steam engine. The tobacco should only smoulder, and re-lighting is completely normal. Draw on the pipe slowly and cautiously, leaving a certain amount of time between draws. Over time, this becomes an automatic and subconscious process. Guideline for newcomers: If you notice smoke or even fumes, you are either drawing too hard or the pipe is overheating. In this case, bring the temperature down immediately. Ideally, no significant amount of tobacco smoke will come from the bowl while smoking.

Over time, a protective layer often referred to as ‘cake’ forms on the inside of the pipe. This does not comprise charred wood. You should never burn out a pipe: no pipe tobacco of any description is meant for this. Most pipes at the breaking-in stage have a paste that protects the wood and facilitates the formation of ‘cake’. However, many pipes are also supplied with a bowl of plain wood. Please allow such pipes an acclimatisation period and avoid smoking at high temperatures initially, at least until a layer of cake is formed. In any pipe, the first fillings may taste different to subsequent fillings. This is completely normal and part of the breaking-in process.

We do not varnish pipes. Different colours are made by staining. The problem with lacquer: When the pipe is heated during smoking, the wood expands and the lacquer can blow bubbles. That is why our pipes are waxed. I generally advise against painted/varnished tobacco pipes.

There are many different tamping methods. We recommend starting with a tried and trusted method that has stood the test of time for good reason. Please note: No special tools are needed to tamp a pipe; you only need your finger. Add tobacco to your pipe until it is one third full and press it down very carefully. The next third should be pressed in a little firmer. The final third is the stopper: take some tobacco between thumb, forefinger and middle finger and form a small, springy ball. Insert this into the bowl and press it down quite firmly. When you are finished, the tobacco should spring back when pressed with the thumb. Also test the draw: there should be a little resistance, but no need to suck on the pipe. The feel should be similar to using a drinking straw.

After smoking, allow your pipe to cool and rest for 1-2 days. Let your pipe rest in a well ventilated place so that it can dry out (a closed pouch is not suitable, but a pipe stand would be fine). Do not remove the mouthpiece while the bowl and mouthpiece are still warm; otherwise, both pieces can warp as they cool. Although this is relatively simple to fix, proper fit may be impaired in the long term. Leave the ash and the tobacco remnants in the pipe for a while as these will absorb moisture like a sponge. Cleaning should only be carried out after (complete) cooling. Do not leave your pipe unattended outside, and never leave a pipe out in the rain. At first, you may own just one pipe. Although you can smoke a pipe several times a day without causing any damage, this does not do the pipe any good in the long run. In fact, we would advise newcomers against this: since most beginners unintentionally smoke tobacco that is too moist, the pipe needs time to recover. If you enjoy the meditative aspect of pipe smoking, we would recommend acquiring a second pipe: a small pipe collection makes the everyday life of a pipe smoker much easier.

Mould in a Cigar Humidor is a popular topic on internet forums and facebook groups about cigars. I already explained how the illogical search for the “ideal” 70% can be a delusional idea. The topic cigar mould is connected to that obvious fear. We receive questions on a regular basis asking for a diagnosis. In almost each case cigar bloom or non-toxic food mould fungi is the diagnosis. This text is meant to give a basic overview. As Owner and Operator of GERMANUS we’re asked for diagnosis. In most cases the found condition is cigar bloom. Cigar bloom is a good sign of aging and also an absolutely normal sign. To give a rough guideline: Doesn’t a cigar smell unpleasantly, can you smoke it (because it isn’t too wet), does she taste at least acceptably, and you most likely won’t have a mouldy cigar at issue. A mouldy cigar smells rotten. Nobody would eat rotten meat, because it smells so badly. In the same way you won’t accidentally smoke a rotten cigar. The standard bodily functions should prevent accidental consumption. Just like the alarmism in connection with best before dates, mould and cigars are a topic of alarmism. The cigar Journal published some very useful articles about the topic. Cigar Bloom Important: There are most astounding stories that smokers tell. I can tell stories about smokers, who fill their humidor up with water like an aquarium and give their cigars a nice swim in the pool. There are smokers, who soak their humidifiers before they go on vacation. They add an additional humidifier to make sure there’s enough moisture during absence. And they place the humidor with windows in the bright sunlight. Then they go away and leave their greenhouse alone. But these are exceptional incidents. The usual cigar smoker pays at least some attention to his cigars and thinks his actions through. He sees a little white fluff on his cigars, which he soon recognises. Please keep calm in such moments. That’s a viable situation. If there’s an actual case of mould, the experienced smoker doesn’t put to much attention to the issue. Cigars are a natural product, which are usually hand rolled and have seen many hands before finally be packed into boxes and later be smoked. The box will get through changing climate. Germs and Spores are included in either case. Affected cigars can be isolated. If the humidor shows fluff e.g. at the humidifier’s grille, you can wipe it off and have an eye on the area during the next time. There are two reasons that should reassure you. Cigar Bloom It’s usually the cigar bloom, which is wrongly taken for mould. The pictures showcase Ramon Allones Specially Selected directly from the German importer 5th Avenue. I personally smoked the cigars with greatest pleasure. The taste was just great. The aroma inside the box is among the most pleasent smells that I ever got the luck to smell. If you get a box of these, be happy about your luck. Cigar Bloom mostly appears on cigars during summer. (It got to do with the surrounding temperatures around.) Many Cigar Smokers are surprised to see cigar bloom on their cigars, when summertime begins. But cigar bloom is just a proof of a well aged cigar. Good and Bad Mould There are different kinds of mould. I repeatedly discussed the topic with Marc Andre, who writes articles about cigar storage for the European Cigar Journal. In consultation with the 5th Avenue (Importer of Habanos in Germany), they gave the following statement, which I quote in original German language and an English translation: In praxis cigar bloom is often mixed up with food mould fungus. From the view of the smoker, it’s almost identical and there’s no real difference: Both are signs of aging and are not affecting cigars. „This white fungusis no toxical food mould fungus and shouldn’t be mistaken with such fungus. Food mould fungus is an organic product and toxical. The fluff on the cigars is odourless. The white fluff is Eurotium – a not toxical fungus. Most cigar boxes automatically contain this fungus. In contrast to classic food mould fungus, which demands for a high humidity level to be able to grow, Eurotium sperms can grow at rather low humidity levels of ca. >60%. Eurotium inhabitates almost every cigar. You just can’t see it, because i’s invisible. Only when the cigar evaporates water and transports the salts (Minerals of the tobacco) to the wrapper, it makes a visible impression. That salt is a perfect fertile soil for the spores. The fluff doesn’t look nice, but it absolutely doesn’t affect your cigars. Just wipe it off and wait. After some time, when the cigar will have evaporated its minerals, it won’t appear any more.” Marc Andre „Allerdings ist dieser weiße Flaum nicht mit dem nach Schimmel riechenden Lebensmittelschimmel zu verwechseln. Lebensmittelschimmel ist ein Zersetzungsprodukt organischer Substanz und ist giftig. Das ist bei dem weißen Belag auf dem Schwamm nicht der Fall. Der Flaum ist praktisch geruchlos. Dabei handelt es sich um so genannten Eurotium – ein nicht toxinbildender und geruchloser Pilz. Diesen haben Sie in praktisch jeder Zigarrenkiste automatisch drin. Im Gegensatz zu klassischem Lebensmittelschimmel der eine hohe Luftfeuchte zum wachsen benötigt, können Eurotium-Sporen schon bei einer relativen Luftfeuchte von 60% entstehen. In jedem passiven Befeuchtungssystem haben Sie diese Sporen drin – Sie sehen sie nur nicht. Und Eurotium ist auf jeder Zigarre . Sie sehen ihn nur nicht. Es sei denn, die Zigarre verdunstet Wasser und transportiert das im Tabak enthaltene Salz (Mineralien des Tabks) auf das Deckblatt. Ein perfekter Nährboden für diese Sporen. Der Flaum sieht unschön aus, ist aber vollkommen unschädlich für die Zigarre. Wegputzen und warten. Nach einiger Zeit (wenn der Tabak seine Mineralität ausgedunstet hat) wird das nicht mehr auftreten.“ Marc Andre Temperature The perfect temperature for growing mould is ca. 5-15°C. A simple experiment to prove the assumption can be performed with a piece of cheese. If the temperatures are higher, the cheese won’t soon grow mould. If a white fluff appears, it’s most likely Eurotium, which is also known as a benign food mould fungus. Once again an excerpt of Marc Andre: “If mold does grow on the cigar, this is almost always Eurotium.spp, a fungus that does not form toxins and that grows in every mattress and in every environment with a relative humidity above 60%. This fungus only grows on the surface of the cigar, on the wrapper, is entirely harmless and is easily confused with cigar bloom. If this fungus structure appears on the cigar, you simply wipe it off. If cigars are stored cool at a storage temperature of 16°C and 65 to 70% relative air humidity, you will notice that the cigars feel relatively dry. This is due to the fact that as the temperature falls below 18°C, the relative air humidity must be increased in order to ensure the 13% by weight of water in the cigar. Hence the air humidity is increased to figures between 75 and 80%. And that is where the attentive reader will see the problem: the low-temperature and ongoing high air humidity increases the risk of mould. As long as it is only Eurotium, it is harmless, but if in fact Apsergillus flavus is growing on the cigars, it becomes a problem. And this risk occurs where storage is at a low temperature and high relative air humidity.” "Sofern tatsächlich Schimmel auf der Zigarre wächst, handelt es sich fast immer um den Erotium.spp, einen nicht Toxin bildenden Pilz, der in jeder Bettmatratze und in jeder Umgebung mit einer relativen Feuchte von mehr als 60 Prozent wächst. Auf der Zigarre wächst dieser Pilz nur oberflächlich auf dem Deckblatt, ist vollkommen harmlos und kann leicht mit der Zigarrenblüte verwechselt werden. Tritt dieses Pilzgeflecht auf der Zigarre auf, so wischt man es einfach ab. Wenn nun Zigarren gekühlt gelagert werden, so wird man bei 16 °C Lagerungstemperatur und 65 bis 70 Prozent relativer Luftfeuchte feststellen, dass sich die Zigarren verhältnismäßig trocken anfühlen. Das liegt daran, dass ab Temperaturen von weniger als 18 °C die relative Luftfeuchte sukzessive erhöht werden muss, um die 13 Gewichtsprozent an Wasser in der Zigarre zu gewährleisten. Also wird man die Luftfeuchte erhöhen auf Werte zwischen 75 und 80 Prozent. Und da bemerkt der aufmerksame Leser das Problem: Geringe Temperatur und andauernd hohe Luftfeuchte erhöhen die Schimmelgefahr. So lange es sich nur um den Eurotium handelt, ist das harmlos, wenn aber tatsächlich ein Aspergillusflavus auf den Zigarren wächst, dann wird es brenzlig. Und diese Gefahr besteht bei Lagerungsbedingungen." Video of the most popular German Pipe Youtuber: Ralligruftie Ralligruftie and me came across the topic of mouldy tobacco in connection with natural pipe tobaccos. Ralf’s interest into the topic grew and therefore I put forward the idea of making a video about the mould topic. Ralf made this video about tobacco and how tobacco can change under circumstances. I presented some of the materials to him, upon which the video is based. He’s a pipe smoker. He therefore puts more emphasis on pipe tobacco. Thanks to him for also mentioning cigars and cigar storage in his video. I asked him to do so and of course are very happy that he made some comments. He made once again a great video. I like the way how he discusses the topic and also the calm way in which he classifies mould as one peculiarity among others inherent with tobacco.

Drawing resistance is critical to a good smoking experience. If the resistance is too high, you will need to draw heavily. This will make the pipe overheat faster and more condensate will form, which often makes new pipe smokers draw even more hastily. This indicates the tobacco is tamped down too strongly. If the filling burns easily but the tobacco fails to glow despite an appropriate moisture content and soon goes out, it is likely that the tobacco was tamped too loosely.